I got the 66 gallon tank to replace a bad diaphragm type tank. I could not find a stainless old style pressure tank in the USA, so I got this Chinese one. It is installed now and working fine, and I don't expect to have to ever replace it again. It has no rubber bladder or diaphragm to break, just a steel tank. The stainless steel does not stick to a magnet, which is a good quality indicator. The welds are very good. The gauge of the steel is a bit thin compared to my old tank, but more than adequate, and light enough for one man to take down basement stairs to install (when empty, of course). The only inconvenience I had was that the tolerance of the welded in pipe bungs was loose compared to NPT thread standard. Installing a pipe fitting with pipe dope alone will definitely leak. It will be necessary to use teflon tape wrapped thicker than usual, and use pipe dope on the outside of the tape before installing the fitting in the bung. The fitting should not be tightened all the way to the bottom of the bung, as this will cause it to tilt slightly off center, and weaken the seal. It would be very advisable to install all fittings and pressure test for leaks before installation. I used the bottom boiler drain bung for the water fill and supply port, instead of the side bungs because this will make the tank self cleaning of sedimate. Since this is not a bladder or diaphragm tank, it will water log over time, and require draining and resetting the pressure charge about once a year. For example, since I have a 30/50 pressure switch, I would drain the tank and pressurize it to 28 PSI (2 PSI below the bottom cut in of my switch). I installed a Schrader fitting on the top of the tank to recharge it with air. Best of luck.